Monday, April 02, 2007

Up at dawn in Dar

Mar 30

We rose early to the beep of our trusty Timex travel clock and I immediately hit the shower. It was so early that I forgot to turn on the light when I went into the bathroom and I was too tired to care, so I showered in the dark with only the glow of the bathroom's night light. The spray in the shower could peel the chrome from a car bumper but with the layer of sunscreen and sweat I had going I didn't notice it. The girls were stirring when I emerged from the shower and Nik had a quick shower while I got myself and Abby dressed. I organized the luggage and supplies for easy access and headed to find the luggage cart. I was able to haul a couple of out now 70+lbs suitcases down the 15 or so steps to the cart before help arrived in the form of two eager concierges. Only one was required, but many hands make quick work, but also more tips.

It took two full carts to take all of our things to the front desk and I was worried when I didn't see a large van in the circular drive. Thankfully our driver was a pro and had shown up in a Toyota land cruiser. He brought it around as the two concierges struggled to take the carts down the ramp to the driveway. Along the way they seemed to multiply as once it was time to load there were three of them. The new one was an older fellow who they deferred to for ideas on how to fit it all in. They argued back and forth in Swahili with the driver breaking his back inside juggling the enormous bags back and forth as instructed by the elder organizer. I gave my two bits in English and somehow the organizer understood and endorsed my plan and disseminated it to the team who sprung to action and had the truck loaded in a hurry. Nikki and Abby were crammed in the back seat with the food so I climbed into the front, on the correct side this time and we were off to the airport.

The drive to town was peaceful as it was just 6:30 and we were able to catch the sunrise over the Indian Ocean as we rocketed down Ocean Drive to the much busier streets that head into downtown. We entered the mainstream of commuters rather quickly and settled into the snail's pace with honks and waves and just too many cars. As we crawled along, motorbikes zoomed by in between the lanes as if immune to the possibility of cars changing lanes. Our pace quickened as we passed the center of town and we were at speed again in short order. This side of town is certainly less affluent than the Sea Cliff hotel area. The apartments are run down and there are many indescribable homes that do not look fit to live in.

This poverty was the first I have seen to this extent and we were only driving by, and at quite a speed, but it had a (cliche coming) powerful affect on me. It is still, a few days later, not possible for me to describe the emotions and information it gave me to see these homes and the people who live in them. Despite the living conditions these are a proud people and they come out of their homes with colourful, clean and stylish clothing. They walk tall and with purpose with smiles on their faces.

To be continued… Time is running out at the internet cafe


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